tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-61320289491718315402024-03-13T10:19:14.950-04:00FranekeFrancesco Chttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07216728911058640440noreply@blogger.comBlogger59125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6132028949171831540.post-65569885479485517312023-11-30T10:05:00.005-05:002023-11-30T15:29:13.426-05:00T-Pain - Baby Got Brap<p> Enjoy & props to Hert from Hoonigan!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/jdoYMJ3nglM" width="320" youtube-src-id="jdoYMJ3nglM"></iframe></div><br /><p><br /></p>Francesco Chttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07216728911058640440noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6132028949171831540.post-31348926879265824882021-02-22T17:00:00.001-05:002021-02-22T17:16:55.052-05:00Custom Center-Exit Exhaust - OE Cat-back Questions Answered<p>I've gotten some questions asked to me on the RX8Club forums about the combination setup of the OE-Catback and the Center-Exit section.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/gmQVrsa.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="800" height="225" src="https://i.imgur.com/gmQVrsa.png" width="400" /></a></div><div><br /></div>Let's answer some of those questions:<br /><span><a name='more'></a></span><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Q: "What is exhaust set up on your car?"</li><ul><li>A: <a href="https://www.franeke.com/2020/10/custom-center-exit-spintech-exhaust.html" target="_blank">Recent Details</a></li><li>A: <a href="https://www.franeke.com/p/builds.html">Build Page</a></li></ul><li>Q: "Can you share what you have done to oem muffler to create center exit?"</li><ul><li>A: Yes! Let's look at some pictures I snapped before this small ice age began...(/s)</li></ul></ul><div>Let's use an image from <a href="https://www.franeke.com/2020/10/custom-center-exit-spintech-exhaust.html" target="_blank">the last details post</a>:</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://imgur.com/Nk17Xq7.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="615" height="400" src="https://imgur.com/Nk17Xq7.jpg" width="308" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Note the muffler orientation; S1 bumpers are made for this cutout section (IMO)<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br />The factory muffler has a cap at the very end of barrel's center, which forces air through the packing and out the sides to exit the muffler. What I have done is add a valve and a small pipe through the bumper:<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/KxWlHcn.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="450" height="640" src="https://i.imgur.com/KxWlHcn.png" width="360" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">These can be vacuum actuated, manually, or electronically</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div>A overall view of the muffler:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/JZHf9Nx.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="450" height="400" src="https://i.imgur.com/JZHf9Nx.png" width="225" /></a></div><br /><div>Views of the Spintech muffler:</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/cUPrQmA.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="450" height="400" src="https://i.imgur.com/cUPrQmA.png" width="225" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Note the orientation of the inlet/outlet pipes</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/JK5VLZy.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="450" height="400" src="https://i.imgur.com/JK5VLZy.png" width="225" /></a></div></div><br /><div>In order to fit the extra 2.5in exhaust piping, you need to "modify" some of your trunk area...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/uqADCF3.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="450" height="400" src="https://i.imgur.com/uqADCF3.png" width="225" /></a></div><br /><div>Initially the exhaust did rub at the rear, so more modifications were needed. Next, I need to spray the metal so it won't rust.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/cbByGRq.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="450" height="400" src="https://i.imgur.com/cbByGRq.png" width="225" /></a></div><br /><div>Lastly, how to protect the plastic of the bumper? I've been using header wrap successfully for years now:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/nw15m30.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="450" height="400" src="https://i.imgur.com/nw15m30.png" width="225" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/BFN9ivS.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="450" height="400" src="https://i.imgur.com/BFN9ivS.png" width="225" /></a></div><br /><div>I hope this answers questions on construction. <a href="https://www.franeke.com/2020/10/custom-spintech-exhaust.html" target="_blank">Head over to Youtube to hear it!</a></div>Francesco Chttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07216728911058640440noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6132028949171831540.post-46155753003098825552020-11-15T17:27:00.003-05:002021-02-26T11:47:52.646-05:002020 Philadelphia Region SCCA - Final ResultsEven with a late start to the '20 season, corona regulations stopping passengers and instructors, <a href="https://www.franeke.com/2020/09/rear-caliper-assembly-swap-fresh-rear.html">part failures</a>: First place in DSP was achieved:<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/YdqOAG9.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="450" height="400" src="https://i.imgur.com/YdqOAG9.png" width="225" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">2020 - 75th Anniversary for SCCA</td></tr></tbody></table><div><span><br /><a name='more'></a></span><div><br /></div><div>This was my first full season as last year I attended 5 events while flushing out issues with my build. By raw times - I need more seat time and likely need to replace my current coilovers.</div><div><br /></div><div>The runway which hosts the majority of the events was fixed by some volunteers from the Philadelphia SCCA region, however if you've watched my GoPro footage - it's still very bumpy at times & a mix of concrete and tarmac.</div><div><br /></div><div>There are a series of upgrades on deck and over the off season I'll have more details coming.</div><div><br /></div><div>In the meantime, check out my past autox videos with the Philly SCCA region:</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;">SCCA AutoX Regional Solo </div><div style="text-align: center;"><iframe frameborder="0" height="344" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/videoseries?list=PLKHW7EIKwKTRUMYRrvkXOjHNG01-kJUlD" style="background-image: url(https://i.ytimg.com/vi/W9lRWTkKOVc/hqdefault.jpg);" width="425"></iframe></div></div>Francesco Chttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07216728911058640440noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6132028949171831540.post-65806879630220864112020-10-12T09:37:00.005-04:002021-02-23T10:11:29.450-05:00Custom Center-Exit Spintech Exhaust - Details<p>The finished product:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/BQhUZXm.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="361" data-original-width="800" height="180" src="https://i.imgur.com/BQhUZXm.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />Now let's look at this closer:<span><a name='more'></a></span></div></div><span><a name="more"></a></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://imgur.com/Nk17Xq7.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="615" height="400" src="https://imgur.com/Nk17Xq7.jpg" width="308" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">As a recap, I have created a modular exhaust setup using V-band clamps to easily change out parts:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Header; OE flange removed for Vibrant V-band clamp</li><li>Mid-pipe:</li><ul><li>V-band to replace the OE front flange</li><li>High flow catalytic converter</li><li>Single resonated midpipe (Spintech)</li></ul><li>Cat-back:</li><ul><li>Mazda OE axel-back pipe into a</li><li>Spintech Sportsman 3000F</li><li>Alternatively, I also have a OE muffler which is also modified to use the center exit portion (more on this in a future post)</li></ul></ul><div>Below is the compact Sportsman 3000F muffler unit:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://imgur.com/hMOPHm7.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="450" height="400" src="https://imgur.com/hMOPHm7.jpg" width="225" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div>The bottle style Spintech resonator:<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://imgur.com/nQ5g2jl.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="324" data-original-width="800" height="162" src="https://imgur.com/nQ5g2jl.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div>And a quick look at the front end of the modular midpipe:</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://imgur.com/Xp1ndBS.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="800" height="225" src="https://imgur.com/Xp1ndBS.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div><br />Now lets look at the whole system:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://imgur.com/ynw20o8.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="425" data-original-width="800" height="213" src="https://imgur.com/ynw20o8.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div>Note the muffler is angled up and tucked away correctly to be both the shortest distance and the least metal used for the exhaust system.</div><div><br /></div><div>Lastly, an up close image of the exit which is wrapped in header wrap and the plastic covered in the gold thermally reflective tape:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://imgur.com/nLiBdhD.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="450" height="400" src="https://imgur.com/nLiBdhD.jpg" width="225" /></a></div><br /><div>I've done a series of multi hour drives and competitions with this exhaust, zero plastic melting or warping. The only damage on my rear bumper was from my own doing 8+ years ago - which is why I had no issue cutting it for this very successful experiment.</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.franeke.com/2020/10/custom-spintech-exhaust.html" target="_blank">Want to hear this exhaust?</a></div><div><br /></div><div>*Update* <a href="https://www.franeke.com/2021/02/custom-center-exit-exhaust-oe-cat-back.html" target="_blank">Questions about how the center exit is configured with the factory muffler</a></div></div>Francesco Chttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07216728911058640440noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6132028949171831540.post-70285284369985589732020-10-07T14:52:00.011-04:002020-10-12T10:14:26.021-04:00Custom Center-Exit Spintech Exhaust<p>As previously teased, I have a new exhaust configuration for competitions using Spintech components.</p><p>Here are two quick videos, in a bit I'll have a few more videos showing differences between my competition and street setups:<span></span></p><a name='more'></a><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="270" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/WsuMHLMpe64" width="480"></iframe></div><p>The components:</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Racingbeat style tubular header</li><li>Spintech Pro-Bullet street round resonator</li><li>Spintech Sportsman 3000F</li><li>Custom center exit</li></ul><div>What is missing?<br /><br /></div><div>Swapping the OE 3-bolt flange from my dual resonated Racingbeat midpipe so that I can eliminate drone over 3600 RPM.</div><div><br /></div><div>What's next?</div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://youtu.be/cQhWvXb-eQY" target="_blank">Street video of the competition exhaust trim</a></li><li>In-car video of the street exhaust trim</li><ul><li>Also with the exhaust opened to 'full power'</li></ul><li>Street video of the street exhaust in both normal and full power modes</li></ul><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="270" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/cQhWvXb-eQY" width="480"></iframe><p></p>Francesco Chttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07216728911058640440noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6132028949171831540.post-49816327373281606182020-09-21T21:50:00.000-04:002020-09-21T21:53:48.588-04:00Mazda RX-8 Reference InformationA <a href="https://www.franeke.com/p/rx-8-reference-information.html">new page</a> has been added to the blog which will be a center point for Mazda RX-8 reference information. Factory service manuals (FSM), torque specs, part diagrams, deflooding procedures, and more information. <div><br></div><div><a href="https://www.franeke.com/p/rx-8-reference-information.html">Check it out!</a></div>Francesco Chttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07216728911058640440noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6132028949171831540.post-85541440416789066942020-09-19T08:00:00.001-04:002020-09-19T08:00:02.664-04:00Street Prepared DIY Air Dam and Front Splitter - Part 4<p>I am <a href="https://www.franeke.com/2020/09/street-prepared-diy-air-dam-and-front_18.html" target="_blank">building a front splitter and air dam</a> to comply with the Street Prepared class for SCCA Solo. The last part in this post series - we paint, trim and complete the front splitter and air dam. Let's get to it:</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/Qu2Fqlk.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="308" data-original-width="800" height="154" src="https://i.imgur.com/Qu2Fqlk.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hanging using wire hangers from the dry cleaners<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><span></span></p><a name='more'></a>Here is a look at the front without the part installed, showing the hanging supports - there is space is build the splitter lower to the ground, but then it's more susceptible to cones/road debris.<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/i5zDuFH.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="800" height="225" src="https://i.imgur.com/i5zDuFH.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>The drying product is left for 24 hours to dry before handling:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/MP7pWcZ.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="190" data-original-width="800" height="95" src="https://i.imgur.com/MP7pWcZ.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>The following day, I installed the part and began determining the best location to create the air inlet:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/wSY0oiM.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="800" height="225" src="https://i.imgur.com/wSY0oiM.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>Using a roll of tape, I traced 2 semi circles and areas to cut away the air dam:</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/MTgj4iv.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="800" height="225" src="https://i.imgur.com/MTgj4iv.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I used the contour of the front bumper and the oil cooler recesses to align the holes<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p>After trimming the air dam, I resealed the curving areas against the splitter with the same sealant as before:</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/CkR4hoi.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="338" data-original-width="800" height="169" src="https://i.imgur.com/CkR4hoi.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table>A closer look:<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/NHVmU9i.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="324" data-original-width="800" height="162" src="https://i.imgur.com/NHVmU9i.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div>I am trying to use more of the auto body tape to stick the stop sections of the air dam to the front bumper:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/1PqmDps.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="800" height="225" src="https://i.imgur.com/1PqmDps.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div>Lastly, I cut and crimped 1/8 inch stainless steel wire and used adjustable patio railing supports to hold the front of the splitter:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/SCThGtV.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="800" height="225" src="https://i.imgur.com/SCThGtV.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div>In conclusion, I wanted to test this out at the sixth event in the 2020 solo season, however I found something sharp on the way to the track and could not attend. I have a fresh tire on the way for the seventh event so that I can test out this upgrade on the track.</div><div><br /></div><div>Stay tune and keep rotoring!</div>Francesco Chttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07216728911058640440noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6132028949171831540.post-62808865366603459842020-09-18T08:30:00.002-04:002020-09-19T08:53:29.691-04:00Street Prepared DIY Air Dam and Front Splitter - Part 3<p>I am <a href="https://www.franeke.com/2020/09/street-prepared-diy-air-dam-and-front_17.html" target="_blank">building a front splitter and air dam</a> to comply with the Street Prepared class for SCCA Solo. Next in the series is creating the street prepared air dam, securing it, sealing it, and getting the combined parts painted.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/p3qMSSi.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="450" height="400" src="https://i.imgur.com/p3qMSSi.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1/16" x 3/4" angled aluminum, marked in 1 inch increments and drilled</td></tr></tbody></table><p><span></span></p><a name='more'></a>Another test fitting and filling in the space between the splitter and the area of the front bumper:<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/BsfzxW0.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="800" height="225" src="https://i.imgur.com/BsfzxW0.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>Next is to cut off the excess:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/rULcYmu.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="310" data-original-width="800" height="155" src="https://i.imgur.com/rULcYmu.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>With that, the air dam construction begins using the 1 inch angled mounts:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/Jv32AFn.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="800" height="225" src="https://i.imgur.com/Jv32AFn.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>Using clamps, I drilled out the holes for rivets to hold the air dam to the mounts, but first zip ties were used to mock the air dam before fully committing to the rivets:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/RjIMg8n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="800" height="225" src="https://i.imgur.com/RjIMg8n.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>After completing a first layer, a second layer of air dam was needed. I used rivets to hold these sections together:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/6sXAOBo.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="800" height="225" src="https://i.imgur.com/6sXAOBo.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>With that, sealing is required as it is not air tight:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/0CrZt7l.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="800" height="225" src="https://i.imgur.com/0CrZt7l.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>I chose a flexible outdoor sealant to seal the air dam to the splitter:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/hCxrd05.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="277" data-original-width="800" height="139" src="https://i.imgur.com/hCxrd05.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>Up close:</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/njtJRg0.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="517" data-original-width="800" height="259" src="https://i.imgur.com/njtJRg0.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A good bead is important<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/twAHBn2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="800" height="225" src="https://i.imgur.com/twAHBn2.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The other side had sealant coming out<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p>Take time to use plastic to protect anything around the area you are painting while you are waiting for the sealant to dry. Now the part is ready for painting:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/huiZHoU.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="800" height="225" src="https://i.imgur.com/huiZHoU.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p>Next in the series, the part is painted, the air dam is trimmed for an air inlet, and the front cable supports are installed.</p>Francesco Chttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07216728911058640440noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6132028949171831540.post-287874891898350952020-09-17T08:00:00.001-04:002020-09-17T08:00:03.472-04:00Street Prepared DIY Air Dam and Front Splitter - Part 2<p>To continue <a href="https://www.franeke.com/2020/09/street-prepared-diy-air-dam-and-front.html" target="_blank">the series</a>, I am building a front splitter and air dam to comply with the Street Prepared class for SCCA Solo. We last left off having marked the splitter and outline on 15/32 inch Birch wood - including drilling mounting holes to the OE mount points.</p><p>Now we make it durable to road debris and flex stresses:<span></span></p><a name='more'></a><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/4jpMhlx.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="450" height="400" src="https://i.imgur.com/4jpMhlx.jpg" width="225" /></a></div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>1/16" Aluminum 6 foot section, cut to size</li><li>3M Automotive body tape</li><li>M8 Flat head phillips bolts</li><ul><li>Including washers, locking washers</li></ul><li>Loctite blue (AutoX rattles everything loose, it is known)</li></ul><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/mJJezKi.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="450" height="400" src="https://i.imgur.com/mJJezKi.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Assembled with a row of flat heads and adhesive making the back section much more rigid<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div>Next is creating the mounting brackets. I chose to use the lower point of the crash bar on each side of the front to extend down to the splitter and a empty hole in the body above the front headlamps. Let's start with the crash bar piece:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/EUwFVFt.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="450" height="400" src="https://i.imgur.com/EUwFVFt.jpg" width="225" /></a></div><br /><div>The next rear mounting point requires a step bit to expand the OE location to fit the hardware, noted as 'A' below:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/OINEoKk.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="450" height="400" src="https://i.imgur.com/OINEoKk.jpg" width="225" /></a></div><br /><div>Below are both mounting points from the driver's side:</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/aRbqH93.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="450" height="400" src="https://i.imgur.com/aRbqH93.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Each of these mount points put stress on the board, which is why there is an aluminum strip lining the backside of the splitter.</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div>Here is what it looks like from the front at this stage:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/Pum05zi.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="800" height="225" src="https://i.imgur.com/Pum05zi.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div>On the next post, the air dam construction begins, it is sealed, and painted.</div><div><br /></div><div>Keep rotoring.</div>Francesco Chttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07216728911058640440noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6132028949171831540.post-31788912882690125802020-09-15T10:42:00.003-04:002020-09-15T11:25:01.305-04:00Street Prepared DIY Air Dam and Front Splitter - Part 1<p>My factory air dam finally has been damaged to the point where I'll take the time to build parts specifically classed for Street Prepared in SCCA Solo/AutoX:</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/VpnY4LV.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="800" height="225" src="https://i.imgur.com/VpnY4LV.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Passenger side air dam mounts are torn, face is scraped pretty good too...<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p>This will be one of a series of posts on creating a DIY air dam and front splitter. Let's look at the <a href="https://www.scca.com/pages/solo-cars-and-rules" target="_blank">SCCA AutoX Rules</a>, page 102 - Street Prepared Modifications:<span></span></p><a name='more'></a><p></p><p></p><p>"A spoiler/splitter may be added to the front of the car below the
bumper. <b>It may not extend rearward beyond the front most part of
the front wheel well openings</b>, and may not block normal grille or
other openings, or obstruct lights. <b>Splitters may not protrude beyond
the bumper.</b> Openings may not be used for the purpose of ducting air
to the radiator or oil cooler, but they may allow air to flow through
a permitted oil cooler provided no ducting is used. <b>The spoiler may
not function as a wing.</b> This allows a vertical air dam/spoiler above a
horizontal splitter, but splitter fences or longitudinal vertical members that serve to trap air on top of the splitter by preventing it from
flowing around the sides of the car are not allowed."</p><p>By using a heavy nut, I made a simple plumb bob to map the outline of the bumper:</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/KPPmigI.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="450" height="400" src="https://i.imgur.com/KPPmigI.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The front nose sticks out the most past the OE aero parts just over an inch, the other areas is less than an inch.</td></tr></tbody></table><p>Required watching, reading before starting your own project:</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oVZz4Xa4it0">How to build a DIY splitter and air dam</a> (Video)</li><li><a href="https://nasaspeed.news/tech/aero/air-dams-splitters-spoilers-and-wings-downforce-increases-grip-grip-decreases-lap-times-and-isnt-that-the-whole-point/">Air Dams, Splitters, Spoilers and Wings – Downforce increases grip, grip decreases lap times, and isn’t that the whole point?</a></li><li><a href="https://www.autoxandtrack.com/diy-splitter-autocross-track-use/">DIY Splitter for Autocross and Track use</a></li></ul><p></p><p>Construction Notes:</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>By increasing the size of the air dam and splitter - extra supports will be needed outside of the OE mounting locations.</li><ul><li>For track cars quad mount points on the front and four more on the back.</li><li>The RX-8's front most support point are the tow hooks as they connect into the crash bar through the front bumper.</li></ul><li>In keeping with my class:</li><ul><li>I cannot make the splitter past the front part of the wheel well opening,</li><li>Nor can the splitter extend past the bumper,</li><li>I can duct air into the radiators through the air dam as long as it is vertical and not horizontal.</li></ul><li>15/32 in Birch wood is lighter per square foot than Aluminum</li><li>Custom mounting brackets are required to secure the back sections of the splitter and support extra load form the additional downforce.</li><ul><li>I bent and cut aluminum strips to size for the rear mounts,</li><li>Front mounts are cable railing hardware.</li></ul></ul><p>After separating the OE air dam from the bumper, I took clamps and fixed the wood to the air dam:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/VXGpuML.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="800" height="225" src="https://i.imgur.com/VXGpuML.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div><br /></div>Next, I traced the outline with the air dam and as well from the front bumper using the home made plumb bob to map the outside perimeter of the splitter based on the bumper's outline:<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/dXv5bnM.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="800" height="225" src="https://i.imgur.com/dXv5bnM.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div>Here is a top down view with the wood clamped in place:</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/TQDKNE0.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="450" height="400" src="https://i.imgur.com/TQDKNE0.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The contour of the bumper is where the extra space is gained across the head lights into the center of the nose.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><div><p>Next is tracing the mounting holes for the OE splitter:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/i5THq0O.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="800" height="225" src="https://i.imgur.com/i5THq0O.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p>In the next post I'll show how to add metal supports to the back of the wood for additional durability, as well as fabricating mounts for the splitter and the air dam.</p><p>Stay tuned for more!</p></div></div>Francesco Chttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07216728911058640440noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6132028949171831540.post-82202055662254950542020-09-14T18:02:00.005-04:002020-11-15T17:30:35.429-05:00Rear Caliper Assembly Swap & Fresh Rear Brakes<p>As mentioned in the previous post, sticking passenger rear caliper has to be replaced - as well as at least one set of rotors & pads, I opted to swap both rotors and pads.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/yMfz2xe.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="800" height="225" src="https://i.imgur.com/yMfz2xe.jpg" title="StopTech Sport Slotted Rear Rotors" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">StopTech Sport Slotted Rear Rotors</td></tr></tbody></table><p>Important Removal Caliper/Assembly Notes:</p><p><span></span></p><a name='more'></a><p></p><p></p><ol style="text-align: left;"><li>Use a brake disc pad separator to hold the caliper piston while performing the brake work.</li><li>A brake piston tool is required to spin the rear caliper piston backwards to allow for the fresh brake pad's width.</li><li>Do not use brake cleaner near any painted items you care about; use extra cardboard to absorb the brake cleaner spray.</li><li>Do not forget to disengage the parking brake as you'll need to remove the cable from the caliper assembly.</li><li>Use WD-40 or your preferred degreaser on the four bolts holding the assembly to the spindle.</li></ol>Speaking of the parking brake:<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/ZlRgFtH.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="450" height="400" src="https://i.imgur.com/ZlRgFtH.jpg" width="225" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>A) This is the support bracket for the parking brake cable. There is a simple clip holding it in place, use a flat head or pliers to remove. Easy to do when the parking brake is disengaged (which I initially overlooked from habitually putting the car in gear + parking brake before jacking the car up).<div><br /><div>B) The cable hooks onto the caliper here, when there is no tension in the cable you can wiggle this free. It may help to lightly spray it in WD-40 if it sticks. Once the cable is unhooked, it can be removed from the assembly.</div><div><br /></div><div>Fresh brake pads on the passenger rear:</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/7C46iBg.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="450" height="400" src="https://i.imgur.com/7C46iBg.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">These fresh pads will require using a brake piston tool to complete the installation.</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br />The next major portion is swapping the brake line, this is only major because the goal is to let the least amount of fluid out and air into the brake line. If you position the new caliper near the old one, it is possible to quickly reinstall with minimal fluid lost.</div><div><br /></div><div>Enter the One Man Brake Bleed bottle:<br /></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/L3dodeO.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="450" height="400" src="https://i.imgur.com/L3dodeO.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Always have the bottle above the bleed port.</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span> <span> </span><span> </span></span>After 10~15 minutes:</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/YxlpfiY.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="450" height="400" src="https://i.imgur.com/YxlpfiY.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Note the solidly filled tube without air bubble.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div><br />The fully swapped passenger rear:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/wsSA5uq.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="800" height="225" src="https://i.imgur.com/wsSA5uq.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div><br /></div>The driver rear rotor and pad both had mostly even wear:<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/qca7419.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="800" height="225" src="https://i.imgur.com/qca7419.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/H0cCHxc.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="800" height="225" src="https://i.imgur.com/H0cCHxc.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Thankfully, this wear tells me the caliper is still holding up 16 years later.</div><br /><div>StopTech brake pads have a bedding procedure of two rounds of ten 60->10 mph stops with a highway cool down between rounds.<br /><div><br /></div></div><div>The only problem I had was that on the way to event #6 of the autocross season I found something sharp on the road and punctured the tire. Therefore I'll have to wait until the next event to push the car without 1/4 wheels braking the whole time.</div>Francesco Chttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07216728911058640440noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6132028949171831540.post-73687322756062997212020-08-24T12:00:00.002-04:002020-10-21T19:52:32.757-04:00Sticky brakes & other updatesWhile running the double layout Philly region AutoX event at the Wellsfraudgo / Wellsfargo center I noticed my car was not freely moving on the grid.<div><br /></div><div>I was able to borrow a jack, stand, and 14mm wrench from a E.S. Miata driver (<3 thank you again) to identify and troubleshoot the issue. <span><a name='more'></a></span>As the rain came <span><a name="more"></a></span>I found the passenger rear piston not moving and sticking past a certain point.</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lCmFDm-heGc/X0PhD0KiegI/AAAAAAAB2qA/LFElJgAA0NEez5oa0ddBDnCtyZlQwVJGACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1598284046029627-0.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;">
<img border="0" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lCmFDm-heGc/X0PhD0KiegI/AAAAAAAB2qA/LFElJgAA0NEez5oa0ddBDnCtyZlQwVJGACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1598284046029627-0.png" width="400" />
</a>
</div></div><div><br /></div><div>These rotors and pads are toast, but these have been on since 2012, 🤯, so pretty good run. I ordered the last coated rear caliper from RockAuto, and found decent prices on a pair of StopTech slotted rear rotors and performance pads -- all to be installed before event 6 of the 2020 season.</div><div><br /></div><div>Other updates: I had Blueberry realigned for max camber on OE parts with a slight outward toe bias. Unfortunately they're printer wasn't working for the print out of the specs. My intentions at event #5 was to push the car hard with the extra grip, however the sticky pad negatively impacted me.</div><div><br /></div><div>The good news is the stiffness was from the center exit exhaust pipe in my street setup was rubbing on the frame/body; the new exhaust setup has no rub. Without the rear sway bar it allows the rear to step out more controllably - however I now need to update my driving style to be tighter when pushing the car.</div><div><br /></div><div>The bad news is the race single resonated setup is unbearable on the highway going over 65... So it's good I still have my RacingBeat dual resonated pipe...more to come on that later.</div><div><br /></div><div>Until next time, happy rotoring!</div>Francesco Chttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07216728911058640440noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6132028949171831540.post-2962511305226860792020-08-12T21:21:00.006-04:002020-10-21T19:46:39.124-04:00Something Spintech this way comes...After much time and many mistakes in selecting shops to work on my car, <span><a name='more'></a></span>we have a winner:<div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KCzNdpX1dpM/XzSOlcUSK0I/AAAAAAAB2WU/Ggr4OtxM1d4t4Gy2zwTQmbRvy1rlfGfIACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1597279890015033-0.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;">
<img border="0" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KCzNdpX1dpM/XzSOlcUSK0I/AAAAAAAB2WU/Ggr4OtxM1d4t4Gy2zwTQmbRvy1rlfGfIACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1597279890015033-0.png" width="400" />
</a>
</div><br /></div><div>Find more in the following posts:</div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="background-color: white; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.52); font-family: Roboto, RobotoDraft, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"><a href="https://www.franeke.com/2020/10/custom-spintech-exhaust.html" target="_blank">Custom Center-Exit Spintech Exhaust</a></span></li><li><span style="background-color: white; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.52); font-family: Roboto, RobotoDraft, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"><a href="https://www.franeke.com/2020/10/custom-center-exit-spintech-exhaust.html" target="_blank">https://www.franeke.com/2020/10/custom-center-exit-spintech-exhaust.html</a></span></li></ul></div>Francesco Chttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07216728911058640440noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6132028949171831540.post-67044204769683135262020-06-07T20:29:00.004-04:002020-06-08T21:28:07.121-04:00Extending the life of your RENESISHere are my top 5 tips to extending the life of your RX-8 engine. This is from over a decade of ownership and several power plants in different conditions, including low compression and re-manufactured. <div><br /></div><div><b>5.</b> Upgraded coil packs, fresh spark plugs and wires.<span><a name='more'></a></span> GM Yukon style are great, and some newer marine style have surfaced in the past 5 years. </div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-K6XgiTsJlQI/Xt1_scW2J3I/AAAAAAABzww/ZgxATDJknGo56aZ6VEr8qj2yqLnJnfL8ACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1591574447371221-0.png"><img border="0" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-K6XgiTsJlQI/Xt1_scW2J3I/AAAAAAABzww/ZgxATDJknGo56aZ6VEr8qj2yqLnJnfL8ACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1591574447371221-0.png" width="400" /></a></div></div><div><br /></div><div><b>4.</b> Let your motor warm up before starting to drive. The most wear on internals happen when the engine is cold, like at startup.</div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Pv9xJuBHK-0/Xt1_rvr01DI/AAAAAAABzws/75Ddxx5bbgYaUHqCQT3AVGR2PkoxOexegCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1591574445619869-1.png"><img border="0" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Pv9xJuBHK-0/Xt1_rvr01DI/AAAAAAABzws/75Ddxx5bbgYaUHqCQT3AVGR2PkoxOexegCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1591574445619869-1.png" width="400" /></a></div>Wait until past the blue line to start driving away slowly. Once into the green area above, smooth sailing. Wait until fully warmed before going WOT.</div><div><br /></div><div><b>3.</b> Has the car been sitting for a week or more? Use the deflooding procedure to prime the oil system by turning the rotors without spark or fuel.</div><div> <b>A)</b> Turn ignition to accessory</div><div> <b>B)</b> Press both the clutch and gas pedal at the same time & crank the motor for 2~ seconds</div><div> <b>C)</b> Then with only the clutch pedal pressed start the car normally.</div><div><br /></div><div><b>2. </b>Before turning the engine off, rev to 3500~ and turn the ignition off. This moves any unburnt fuel out of the combustion chamber. Next start up should be smoother than starting normally after sitting.</div><div><br /></div><div><b>1. </b>Pre-mixing, my preferred brand is Idemitsu. Some forum members split cases or you can get a whole case from Mazdatrix. In the addition to the other listed items, premixing lubricates the motor more than just the engine oil from the OMP. I mix 8 oz for 16 gallons of fuel, so 4x uses per bottle - times the case of 12 means 48 tanks for $80 [<a href="https://www.mazdatrix.com/product/oil-premix-fuel-lube-idemitsu-premix-case/">Idemitsu Case - Mazdatrix</a>].</div><div><br /></div><div>These 5 steps can extend your engine's life 10~20k miles longer! <i>Happy revving!</i></div>Francesco Chttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07216728911058640440noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6132028949171831540.post-78991955923915422912020-06-01T16:09:00.004-04:002020-11-15T17:30:14.798-05:00Corona can't stop my doritos from spinning!That's right, you heard me!<div><br /></div><div>While the current 2020 SCCA AutoX season is essentially DNS (did not start, verses DNF - did not finish) thanks to the Wuhan Flu, that has not stopped me from completing other items that will soon be posted here on the blog...</div><a name='more'></a><div><br /></div><div>While I only participated in 5 of 11 points events in the 2019 season, I placed 5th in my class - which is funny considering I am new to AutoX and I am fleshing out chassis/setup issues from the mayhem of 2013-2015. Without divulging the next posts, one item I will be purchasing for the 2021 season is a set of Ohlins coilovers as they are nearly 50% cheaper now than a decade ago.</div><div><br /></div><div>I have been working with a local welding company to resolve issues from a local speedshop's work; they basically replaced the mid-pipe to axle-back spring flange with a v-band -- I now have wild vibrations after 7.5k...which is not good for the chassis and drivetrain considering how many times I'm spinning that fast.</div><div><br /></div><div>So...what's next? Two things: 1) Replace a toasted resonator with a new one resonator 😎, 2) NJ SCCA AutoX has some events open at the moment, but that is subject to change. </div>Francesco Chttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07216728911058640440noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6132028949171831540.post-27141089955777847922019-08-16T15:47:00.004-04:002020-11-15T17:30:07.609-05:00Evolution: From Track Day to AutoX Setup<p dir="ltr">Over the years I've acquired and installed several parts that stiffened the suspension, chassis of the car in the pursuit of traction and higher cornering speed...<span></span></p><a name='more'></a>After a series of autocross events, I've come to the understanding that a majority of those parts are contributing to the lack of traction and stability in slaloms at higher RPMs. This now means all of the rear GTSPEC bracing must be uninstalled and going back to the factory sway bars.<p></p><p dir="ltr">As a comparison a street class RX-8 was running 2 seconds faster than I was in the Tire Street Prepared class. While the driver of that RX8 has 4 years of AutoX experience, my car is understeering and jumping across the uneven tarmac & concrete -- making it harder to 'trust' the car when pushing it. Therefore I will soften the chassis and suspension to restore the car's flexibility as the weight is transitioned from side to side.</p><p dir="ltr">Lastly, while I have tinkered with the exhaust system, more time will be spent in getting a predictable response from the front and rear of the car on these SCCA AutoX courses. Therefore, upgrading the coil overs and differential are better then power modifications [including an engine rebuild]. </p>Francesco Chttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07216728911058640440noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6132028949171831540.post-80790759797863201722019-08-11T12:00:00.003-04:002020-08-12T21:22:58.729-04:00Center Exit Exhaust - OE Catback TeaserThis has been three years overdue!<span><a name='more'></a></span><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/c1dlol8YMlw/0.jpg" frameborder="0" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/c1dlol8YMlw?feature=player_embedded" width="320"></iframe></div>
<br />
<br />
<span id="goog_1709408298">More details here: <a href="https://www.franeke.com/2020/08/something-spintech-this-way-comes.html" target="_blank">Something Spintech this way comes.</a></span>Francesco Chttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07216728911058640440noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6132028949171831540.post-11367204831093326982019-06-07T20:47:00.004-04:002020-11-15T17:29:59.814-05:00The ReturnWhile there has been an absence on this blog, there has been a flurry
of activities in the background: We're back and racing on the donor
re-manufactured engine!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://i.imgur.com/oHx0gFLl.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" height="240" src="https://i.imgur.com/oHx0gFLl.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div><br /></div><span><a name='more'></a></span><div><br /></div>
Currently
SCCA Solo, aka AutoX is being used as a means of testing different
configurations and testing the car before the real fun begins [more to
come on that]. For now, please enjoy some GoPro footage from the most
recent event this past Sunday:<br />
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zesNJf_rTFU&list=PLKHW7EIKwKTRUMYRrvkXOjHNG01-kJUlD&index=2&t=0s" target="_blank">YouTube Playlist</a></li>
<li>Fastest lap was the last of the day:</li>
</ul>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/Hgbgd8wRAFk/0.jpg" frameborder="0" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Hgbgd8wRAFk?feature=player_embedded" width="320"></iframe></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
More details will be coming out over this next month about the
details of the changes to the car, what's currently changing and what's
on the horizon.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://i.imgur.com/sky7SHjl.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="127" data-original-width="640" height="77" src="https://i.imgur.com/sky7SHjl.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
Stay tuned!<br />
<br />Francesco Chttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07216728911058640440noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6132028949171831540.post-20557371376155708182015-05-05T16:05:00.003-04:002015-05-05T23:02:54.297-04:00Blueberry has been restored, with quirks intact<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/T6XA0yK.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://i.imgur.com/T6XA0yK.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Blueberry</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
It was not just a power unit that was installed, Blueberry has effectively been restored from it's former sabotage. <br />
<br />
The combination of pulling parts from a donor car and a fine touch has yielded:<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<ul>
<li>Fresh rubber hoses</li>
<li>Fresh clamps</li>
<li>Stealth'd heater pipe (Over the UIM) </li>
<li>Rejiggering of my grounding kit's wires</li>
<li>Re-loomed wiring harness </li>
<li>Alternative vacuum hose route</li>
</ul>
Gallery down, meow:<br />
<br />
<blockquote class="imgur-embed-pub" data-id="a/NBXoR" lang="en">
<a href="https://imgur.com/a/NBXoR">Fine Touches</a></blockquote>
<script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//s.imgur.com/min/embed.js"></script>
<br />
Now, she still has some quirks. The spare ignition coil pack currently installed is misfiring the front rotor's trailing plug; this should be resolved by installing my normal coil pack. The aftermarket tubular header is causing a fitment issue joining the mid-pipe; the exhaust is <i>very</i> tight. Game plan is to lob off the flanges, get a flex pipe, and use v-band clamps. And finally, after driving the car it is clear that my differential is certainly damaged. The faulty installation of my power plant frame is the likely culprit, however need not worry -- I have a working spare from the donor car.<br />
<br />
This month I'll be sorting out these quirks and I hope to have some more updates soon. Stay tuned!Francesco Chttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07216728911058640440noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6132028949171831540.post-31678395198140544462015-04-25T20:45:00.000-04:002019-12-01T20:11:20.275-05:00Blueberry's RevivalAfter two years hiatus Blueberry is being revived! --Finally!<br>
<br>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/dkBG1v0.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://i.imgur.com/dkBG1v0.jpg" width="320"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front: Blueberry, Rear: TiGri</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The car is losing it's sabotaged ported power unit for a factory one. Said factory engine is coming from a friend's car with rear frame damage from an accident.<br>
<br>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.imgur.com/Qv7v6YN.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://i.imgur.com/Qv7v6YN.jpg" width="320"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">(2) Renesis Power Units</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
More updates to follow as the working power unit is installed this upcoming week.<br>
<br>
Stay tuned!Francesco Chttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07216728911058640440noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6132028949171831540.post-41338716262771821712013-07-06T15:42:00.001-04:002020-10-23T13:36:14.135-04:00Boom Shaka Laka: The Explanation<div>The short answer: This was an act of sabotage. <span><a name='more'></a></span><br /><br />After six months of leaving Blueberry with Luis Rivera of Wankel Works, a trashed car and a sabotaged motor was returned. While the original agreements weren't not adhered to, I was able to save my fresh rotor housings for my own rebuild in the future.</div><div><br /></div><div>What I did learn from this misadventure was that contracts are a must.</div>Francesco Chttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07216728911058640440noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6132028949171831540.post-49563159908375949592013-07-05T15:13:00.000-04:002015-05-05T23:09:48.332-04:00Boom Shaka Laka: The PresentationWe promised you an engine break down, so here it is!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i.imgur.com/2s6jK64.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i.imgur.com/2s6jK64m.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ze motor</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i.imgur.com/iiEGrDh.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i.imgur.com/iiEGrDhm.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front Cover Damage</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
What happened?<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a>Usually it is the rear rotor that breaks, but this one is intact with all the seals.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i.imgur.com/sbJCNXN.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i.imgur.com/sbJCNXNm.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rear Rotor</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
However, once we laid the rear iron aside, we saw this:<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i.imgur.com/Dg0SXDI.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i.imgur.com/Dg0SXDIm.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rear Iron Step Wear</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
Wear on the rear iron, extreme wear. This wear was caused by the rotating assembly shifting during operation and digging into the irons. This engine had about 700 miles on it before it was taken apart. This Renesis has unknown/unproven "n/a stage 2 racing beat expansion" ports. Also, RX-8 rotors have an extra oil control ring and side seals which are pushed out further than in RX-7 rotors.<br />
<br />
The point failure was violent in this motor:<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i.imgur.com/GfuxwKW.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i.imgur.com/GfuxwKWm.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front Rotor Failure Point</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The rear rotor was completely fine. After minor cleaning it can definitely be reused with its housing. However the rear iron did show extraordinary wear; something forced the rotor to DIG into the into the iron.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i.imgur.com/M54664n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i.imgur.com/M54664nm.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rear Iron Wear</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Interestingly, the wear on the center plate (front rotor side) was not bad at all ....<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i.imgur.com/wqFSikq.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i.imgur.com/wqFSikqm.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Center Plate</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Rear housing is in decent shape - pretty much what you would expect a housing with 700 miles to have, it will be reused.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i.imgur.com/Hih1Zvy.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i.imgur.com/Hih1Zvym.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rear Housing</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
However, on the side of the front rotor, there was intense wear, but more chaotic than the rear plate.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i.imgur.com/ZAQC4kg.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i.imgur.com/ZAQC4kgm.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Center Iron - Front Rotor Side</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The front iron had a lot of chaotic wear as well, albeit, not as much as on the rear iron.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i.imgur.com/vLPz5Cz.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i.imgur.com/vLPz5Czm.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front Iron</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I think we can all agree that there was a balancing issue here.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i.imgur.com/JHo8jQK.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i.imgur.com/JHo8jQKm.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sabotage</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i.imgur.com/gF1wghd.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i.imgur.com/gF1wghdm.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sabotage 2</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We believe that this was an act of sabotage. Not only was the engine vibrating and damaging seals, but the wall between oil and the combustion chamber was broken, so we were getting gas mixing with the oil, which is horrible for the internal bearings.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i.imgur.com/YCJ4T47.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i.imgur.com/YCJ4T47m.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front Iron Wear</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i.imgur.com/askYRvJ.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i.imgur.com/askYRvJm.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front Iron Wear - Port-side View</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
Francesco Chttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07216728911058640440noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6132028949171831540.post-65428179213511505282013-06-22T08:25:00.002-04:002015-05-05T23:08:37.333-04:00Let's play a game...Who can guess what's wrong here?<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://i.imgur.com/O9UvK0G.png"><img border="0" src="http://i.imgur.com/O9UvK0Gl.png" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<a name='more'></a><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Originally the motor would not even start and the spark plugs/coils were incorrectly wired. However after a lot of troubleshooting, the injectors were also not wired correctly.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
During troubleshooting process, oil was found on the spark plugs.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
So, what happened? The answer will be revealed next week with a engine tear-down and analysis.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<b><a href="http://www.franeke.com/2013/07/boom-shaka-laka-presentation.html">**UPDATE: Analysis**</a></b></div>
Francesco Chttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07216728911058640440noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6132028949171831540.post-4413076599148245402013-04-13T13:06:00.003-04:002013-12-03T10:37:36.661-05:00Get The Most From Your Oil ChangeWhile offering assistance to change the oil in my friend's RX-8, we noticed a simple way to drain the oil out of the oil coolers during an oil change. Instead of lowering each side of the car to help drain additional oil, we used a 7/8 in. wrench and remove each oil cooler <span style="font-family: inherit;">thermostat</span>.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kzr3rvzANtU/UWmGa-ypVVI/AAAAAAAAYlA/tqrt4Xxr8TI/s1600/oil_cooler.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kzr3rvzANtU/UWmGa-ypVVI/AAAAAAAAYlA/tqrt4Xxr8TI/s320/oil_cooler.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Oil Cooler Thermostat</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a name='more'></a><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zxNJ6dzBUOE/UWmGcr6V4dI/AAAAAAAAYlM/yaMb_lu3tUY/s1600/oil_cooler_draining.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zxNJ6dzBUOE/UWmGcr6V4dI/AAAAAAAAYlM/yaMb_lu3tUY/s320/oil_cooler_draining.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Draining the oil directly from the cooler<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">The oil cooler thermostats serve the same function as your cooling thermostat. Oil is sent through the oil coolers only when it reaches a certain temperature - just like coolant through your radiator. This allows your oil temperature to be controlled, just like your coolant temperature.</span></div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jaPCF-LOSUU/UWmGce_Q41I/AAAAAAAAYlI/lAPK_mVPm8o/s1600/dirty_oil.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jaPCF-LOSUU/UWmGce_Q41I/AAAAAAAAYlI/lAPK_mVPm8o/s320/dirty_oil.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The oil drained from the cooler</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rpTXM88WjA4/UWmGct-eIkI/AAAAAAAAYlU/8KsmTkboUzo/s1600/oil_cooler_thermostat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rpTXM88WjA4/UWmGct-eIkI/AAAAAAAAYlU/8KsmTkboUzo/s320/oil_cooler_thermostat.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Oil Cooler Thermostat</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
By draining the additional oil from the oil coolers, one can obtain a more thorough oil change. A full 5.1 qt container of new oil left the car with it's dipstick right in the middle after a few engine cycles. Give a try next oil change.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
Francesco Chttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07216728911058640440noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6132028949171831540.post-27983810935636817442012-09-26T08:00:00.000-04:002015-05-05T23:07:59.588-04:00Long overdue update<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<b><a href="http://www.franeke.com/2013/07/boom-shaka-laka-presentation.html">**UPDATE ON THIS MOTOR***</a></b></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Its been so long, so lets cut right to the chase. The motor is currently being rebuilt with custom cut side seals by Wankel Works, in addition to the custom street port.</div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i.imgur.com/n41pO.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i.imgur.com/n41pO.jpg" height="295" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rotor with one side seal installed and two corner seals</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i.imgur.com/uuASh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i.imgur.com/uuASh.jpg" height="320" width="238" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Motor Assembled</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: center;">
</div>
This motor should be making its way into Blueberry today. I am also working on a post to fill in the gaps since the last update Francesco Chttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07216728911058640440noreply@blogger.com0