Thursday, October 13, 2011

Transmission and Differential Fluid Changes

When I changed my transmission and differential fluid around 30,000 miles ago I had the worst time doing. Why? I used those stupid pumps that never seem to work right. So why not let gravity do this work for me, right? Well that's what I did with a funnel and about 4 feet of tubing.



I snaked the hose right to the fill hole on the transmission from here. It was such a simple idea that I didn't even think about it when I put new fluids into the transmission before. Now some people take the shifter off and pour the fluid in. I know me, and I can make a mess any where...that and these fluids smell awful. 


After you crack the drain bolt off the trans and let all of the old fluid out, you will have to replace the crush gaskets with new OE ones. Mine were semi-fused it seemed, best to use a thin flat head and a vice grip to get those buggers off of the bolt.


Now that the drain bolt is back in, take that fill bolt out and place the extended hose into the fill hole and pour SLOWLY.


Now our transmission needs 1.8 qt of fluid, so that extra .2 will be lost in the long hose or as run off as picture below.


Tighten the fill bolt with the new gasket, and its off to the differential.


I had to use a myriad of adapters and extensions to get both of these bolts off. I must warn you, be very careful not to mangle your hand(s) on the frame when breaking the bolts free; trust me, that's another scar from my Blueberry. Now get the drain bolt off and drain the differential fluid


Don't forget the gaskets!


Now put the drain bolt back in and get the fill bolt out. Now use the same hose and place the hose into the driver's side wheelwell. Next route the hose like this so it will stay in place, for the most part.


Then pull the hose through to the differential.


Remember, pour the fluid slowly! Also, the differential needs ~1.6 qts of fluid so extra fluid will trickle out. Then put your fill bolt back in.

One last note: You will see and smell these fluids burning off your transmission and differential. That is to be expected since the fluids did dripple down both the transmission and differential.

Wednesday, October 12, 2011

RE-Zelse #1 SCCA NER

A Big bump for Re-Zelse tearing up BSP this year and grabbing the #1 spot!

RE-Zelse: SCCA NER - Finale & Stirling Moss Runoff:

In late September Re-Zelse was having issues with his SSV that would have stopped him from competing and inevitably taking the Gold...not if I had any say in the matter. After all, the White Lithium Grease trick is still working!

Sunday, October 2, 2011

SSV Maintenance Revisted

About two years ago I cleaned my SSV before I put my oil catch can in. Recently RE-Zelse was having SSV issues so Stinksauce and myself decided to lend a helping hand.

After removing the battery, draining all of the coolant lines, water pump pulley, thermostat housing, and the SSV...we got started.

Using Intake/CARB cleaner we cleaned the port the SSV sits in and it was encrusted with carbon. This motor has less than 15,000mi on it...imagine how your SSV looks at your current mileage.


After spraying half of the can of cleaner into the SSV port, this was the cleanest I could get it with the tools available.


Now that the port was cleaned to the best of our abilities, time to clean the SSV itself:


However, when the SSV was re-installed...it was still sticking. For some reason the SSV would not move fluidly even though it was cleaned. After trial, error, and plenty of curse words...we turned to White Lithium grease.

**Only coat the portion shown above with white lithium grease**

After using white lithium grease on the SSV as shown above.

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